Saturday, April 19, 2014

Caorle. April, Sunday 13th

you rarely see the sea in this space of mine. i'm more of a woods-fields-mountains girl. anyway, after the stroll at the antique market in Portobuffolè, marco and i decided to go reach the coast.

the river that crosses Portobuffolè, called Livenza, keeps flowing for about 50 km to the sea, and we followed it, to a town called Caorle.
the sign "vele di barche caorlotte" means sails of the boats from Caorle
as other fishermen village (as Burano), Caorle is full of bright colors. most of the walls, windows and doors are painted with pastel or vibrant nuances.

my favorite spot was the pink house you see in the first photo. it is decorated with many drawings of boat sails. Paulino Biancon, 82 years old former fisherman, painted them. all the designs are based on reality. in the past, every fisherman's boat was different, with its own colors and patterns: that way, wives and mothers could recognize their men's boats from afar.
mr. Biancon remembered most of them, and he made some researches for the other ones. i love that wall filled with stories.

bright doors and windows in Caorle

Caorle was one of the city of the former republic of Venice, and the composition of the town still resembles Venice.
in the main square, the bell tower is the first thing that catches the eyes. it dates to 1048, is 48 metres tall (it did not fit inside my 50mm lens), and the cylindrical structure, surmounted by a cone shaped cusp, makes it pretty unique.

a colorful "calle" and the main square with the bell tower

we bought some fried squids and french fries, and ate them in the seaside, watching the gray of the sky blend into the gray of the sea.

the last two pictures are taken with vsco cam, as the film roll was over, and the landscape too beautiful to let it go.
church of the blessed virgin of the angel
the last stop was a quiet stop in the lagoon banks. we sat there for a while, watching small boats and swans, listening to the waves.
while we were there, an old man stopped by, asking questions about the lambretta. he told us his parents gifted him with the same lambretta for his 17th birthday, in 1960. he had some sweet memories to share, about field trips, adventures, friends, girls. then he greeted us saying "viva la lambretta".

by the sea
hope you have an happy easter!

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Portobuffolè. April, Sunday 13th

Portobuffolè is the smallest town in Treviso province. just 800 people are living there. however, it's a charming little corner, with a quite important artistic and historical value, in spite of the small dimensions.
in 1300, a noblewoman called Gaia da Camino received the town as a wedding gift from her husband (what a nice gift, a town!) an it seems that made its beauty and importance grow in the following years. now we still can see elegant buildings from XIV-XVI sec.

we visited on a cloudy sunday. the green was greener than usual, the sky whimsical like it should be in april.
every second sunday of the month, an antiques market is held. i think the town makes a beautiful frame for it.

we wandered for the tiny streets. our eyes alternately catched by a funny object or a frescoed façade, an old toy or a nicely shaped window.

we eventually saw a cat on a leash. and a wisteria forest.

we bought another lambretta advertising from 1967 and took an analogue selfie in a vintage mirror.

Saturday, April 5, 2014

Casarsa and Pier Paolo Pasolini's steps. March, Sunday 23rd

places tell stories. i've said and written that over and over. some days ago marco and i visited Casarsa della Delizia, a little village in Friuli Venezia Giulia, to hear some stories about the time Pier Paolo Pasolini lived there. you may have never heard about him, but he was one of the finest, still controversial, and most famous intellectual in postwar Italy. a poet, writer, journalist, filmmaker.

he was born in Bologna in 1922 and died in Rome in 1975, but he spent some meaningful years in Casarsa, where his mother came from. he used to spend his childhood summers there, and during the war and postwar years he moved with her from Bologna, to be safe. he lived in Casarsa for seven years, working as a teacher, before being forced to move to Rome, when a scandal about his homosexuality came out.

in Casarsa he wrote his first poem collections, in the local dialect, the complex friulian language. he was inspired by this land, growing as a man and as an artist. today's Casarsa landscape is not the same as during Pasolini's time, but it is still possible to find some of the topics he wrote about so dramaticaly and beautifully in his poetry. the mulberry trees, the baks of the Tagliamento river. you can still hear that language, in the talks of local people.

we actually listened to the places stories by a group of -very well educated- kids from local middle and high schools, who were guiding visitors around the Pasolini route.

San Giovanni church
first stop - San Giovanni church and lodge
Pasolini was politically commited, and became the local secretary of the communist party. he used to put up handwritten posters in the San Giovanni lodge, near the gothic church: writings in italian and friulian, polemical and usually in opposition to the catholic circles. 
the use of a dialect wasn't popular in the party, a scandal for communists intellectuals, as it was in wartime for nationalists. he was expelled from the party when his homosexuality became public. 

San Giovanni lodge
second stop - Versuta 
this Casarsa's neighborhood is deeper in the countryside. it is today as it was in Pasolini's time. he moved to the village on 1944, during the german occupation. during the hard days of the war, Versuta's kids couldn't go to school, so Pier Paolo and his mother decided to give lessons in the rooms where they were living. the neighborhood has a little church which dates from the mid XIV century. In Pasolini's days many of the frescoes of the churc were hidden under a thick covering. He and his pupils brought them back to the light, rubbing the plaster away with onions.

the class in Versuta with Pier Paolo Pasolini

a fountain dedicated to Pasolini in Versuta. he once wrote "a no è aga pì frescia che tal me paìs" (there's no fresher wather than the water of my village)

Sant'Antonio abate church in Versuta

third stop - the Colussi house
the house of Pasolini's mother family, now hosts a collection of his memorabilia and a research center dedicated to his works. the Colussi house was also the place where he founded his literary salon, the Academiuta, whose plan was to increase the value of the Friulan language, confering linguistic and literary dignity on an exclusively oral vernacular tradition.

one of the old photos displayed in Colussi house, featuring one of Pasolini's passion: soccer. 

fourth stop - Santa Croce church
the small white church is decorated with frescoes and a votive stone remembering the turkish invasion in 1499. from this stone Pasolini draw inspiration for the first drama he wrote. on this very church, Pier Paolo Pasolini's funeral was celebrated on 1975, november 6th, after he was murdered in Ostia, Rome.

Sant'Antonio façade and one of Santa Croce's frescoes

the place i loved the most during the whole itinerary is Versuta. the small church stands in the middle of a typical countryside neighborhood. on the inside, the bright frescoes embrace you, with an humble solemnity. a quiet space to think and be grateful for the beautiful things.

Sant'Antonio abate church in Versuta, side door 

Sant'Antonio abate church in Versuta, frescoes detail

Sant'Antonio abate church in Versuta, frescoes detail

this post was longer and more descriptive than usual. i hope i haven't bored you! have a lovely weekend.

{nikon em + fuji color 200}

Friday, March 21, 2014

happy to

some italian bloggers are writing posts about three daily things they are proud of.
i'm usually not into chain blog post at all, but the lovely Serena has nominated me, so i'd feel bad to ignore her call.

so, let's see.. what are the actions, rituals, good things that i am proud of doing in my everyday life? actually, i don't feel so special (plus, there are a million things i'm not proud of) so i'd rather tell you what are the few things i am happy to do because i think they're good not just for me, but for everyone.
{for each one daily action, there is a matching travel aspect}

i'm happy to #1 shop at the farmers market (when fruits and vegetables grown at home are not enough), eat my chickens eggs, buy milk at the vending machine of a dairy. in other words, i try to eat locally sourced food, as much as i can.
this means that when i travel, i'm happy to: eat locally, shop locally, sleep locally.

in the pic, some spring joy from the farmers market in Vittorio Veneto this morning

i'm happy to #2 take the bike, when i can. i think is important, in daily life and while travelling, to try to minimize your impact. our lambretta is not as low impact as a bycyle, but not comparable to bigger vehicle. and i'm a big fan of public transportations. it's a slower way to travel, closer to the locals.

views from a roadtrip across Morocco, whole by public transport {a couple of trains, one grand taxi, maaaany buses}, i did with three friends in 2007. i'm not sure who to credit for these pictures, so i thank all of them: Silvia/Bobi, Jacopo, Marco. 

i'm happy to #3 separate collection of rubbish. unfortunately, it's not possible everywhere. while travelling, let's try not to leave behind us a pile of waist. {i'm taking things like not throwing waste on the ground for granted}
many years in the Scouts have taught me to leave this world a little better than you found it. i'm happier when i follow this simple rule. 

since we're talking about actions that make me happy and proud -and travels- i'd love to tell you another story that i cherish as one of the most beautiful travel memory, which i'm also very proud of.
three years ago, my sister, my cousin Marta and i took our grandmother to Amsterdam, for her eightieth birthday. she had always wanted to see Amsterdam and the famous dutch flowers in bloom, so she took her very first plane with us and finally saw it all. 
it was a very special family girls trip.

happy spring everyone!

grandma and my sister Anna in Keukenhof, flower garden in the Netherlands

{all the pictures are processed with vsco. not film photography today!} 

Friday, March 14, 2014

7 reasons to love Vittorio Veneto {plus: moving in!}

as i -visually- told you some months ago, i've been busy nesting. i meant it literally, because marco and i moved into our new apartment, and started a new chapter of our life in Vittorio Veneto, a town we both love, so i think it's fair enough to finally show it to you, and explain what i like the most about my new home.

as i usually do, these reasons are focused on details and totally subjective impressions, so this is not a guide (but i'll write you one, sooner or later).

piazza Flaminio, Serravalle
7 reasons to love Vittorio Veneto

1) you can breathe history and culture 
Vittorio Veneto's history, like almost every town in Italy, goes way back. and you can see it very clearly
the place is called Vittorio Veneto since 1866 before that, there were two separate municipalities: Serravalle and Ceneda. they still maintain their distinctive features and charachters {yes, i overthink places personality}. Ceneda was well known in Roman times, and its importance grew after 667 AD. Serravalle owes its origins to the Romans, too, but reached its greatest splendor under the republic of Venice, from 1337 to 1797. enough history stuff for today, let's say i love places which have many stories to tell, and Vittorio is definitely one of them.

meschietti, Serravalle
2) the mountain are close, and the air is chilly 
i open the window and i see mountains. a refreshing breeze is always blowing from them.  

details, Serravalle

detail, Ceneda.
{do old people love to watch roadworks in your country, too?} 
3) santa augusta
the patron saint of Serravalle is a girl named Augusta, with a sad story. climbing the stairs dedicated to her, and following a charming path, her sanctuary can be reached in half an hour.
the saint is celebrated on august 21st, and the town, which is usually such a quiet place, goes wild for once on that night. 

Sant'Augusta stairs, Serravalle

Sant'Augusta, Serravalle
4) old signs on historical buildings
traces of the past painted on walls
detail, Serravalle
shops, Serravalle

old sign, Serravalle
5) osterie 
i told you what an osteria is. in Vittorio Veneto there are plenty of them. it makes it very rustic and traditional. 
osteria, Serravalle
6) nearby places 
as much as i love travelling, around italy and abroad, i still can't have enough of the countryside and the territory i live in, {i'm sure you've figured that out if you've been reading these pages for a while}, despite the cons that come out of living in the province. and Vittorio is close to hills, mountains, lakes, adorable little towns that i love. plus a bunch of stuff i haven't told you yet. but i will. 
me in in the park of Villa Papadopoli, Ceneda

details, Serravalle
mountain landscape (and the Sant'Augusta sanctuary)

Sant'Andrea church, the oldest one in Vittorio Veneto (built before 1200)

7) nothing is going on. but when it does, it's so nice! 
choosing to live in a small town, means to accept the fact that your social life will never be as the one you can have in Tokyo, New York City or Milano. in my opinion, if you're not okay with that, move. please. stop complaining. if you're okay with that, you'd enjoy the few great things that your territory is offering you, in terms of festivals {the best festival in Vittorio Veneto is held in early september, and it's called Comodamente; other personal favorites around here are the Lago Film Fest and Pordenone Legge}, town fairs, art exhibitions, small shops, farmer markets, flea markets, people gossiping at the bar, events dedicated to local wine and food, destinations for a day trip, etc.

hope you enjoyed our little journey through Vittorio Veneto, and come visit me soon!

me making a face in a tiny street 

Monday, February 24, 2014

vintage lambretta advertising

our newest acquisition from the local antiques market, in Vittorio Veneto.
a page from a 1959 italian magazine featuring a lambretta adv.

it will look great near the same year's playboy cover!